Subtropical Adventure: Your Alternative Guide to Okinawa
Soft white sand beaches, jungle-covered landscapes and untamed tropical rainforests; the sun-soaked Yaeyamas are the southernmost isles in the Ryukyu Islands chain that make up Okinawa Prefecture. As featured in my brand new guidebook, Okinawa is the perfect place to explore remote tropical islands, hike deep into Natural Heritage-protected rainforest, and snorkel amongst coral-fringed shorelines. If you’re planning your next Japan itinerary and looking to spend time relaxing on white sands, coral reef diving and jungle hikes, here are my insider tips for a trip to Japan’s subtropical paradise.
Ishigaki Island
Start your Okinawa journey by flying direct to Ishigaki, the Yaeyama Islands’ main transport hub, and home to some the finest beaches in all of Japan. Hike through lush green jungles, kayak through rich mangrove forested rivers and go diving in search for manta rays and sea turtles in the famous ‘Manta Scramble’ coral reef across from Kabira Bay. Beach highlights are Yonehara Beach, Sukuji Beach and Sunset Beach to see the stars light up the sky at night.
Pro tip: Whilst on Ishigaki, don’t foget to try the local Okinawa cuisine, including soki soba (pork rib noodles) and goya champuru (stir-fried bitter melon) from Shima Soba Ichibanchi (島そば一番地).
Iriomote Island
Take a high speed ferry from Ishigaki to Iriomote Island, home to a population of 2,000, including the island’s icon: the elusive (and critically endangered) Iriomote wildcat. Here, you can hike deep into the UNESCO protected jungle: hiking to hidden waterfalls only accessible by foot, kayaking through dense mangrove jungles and descending deep into subterranean caves.
Note: An experienced guide is essential for the protected jungle hikes. Many expert guides have become synonymous with the Iriomote landscape, locally known for forging many of the hidden pathways and pioneering the protection of this cherished natural treasure.
Yubu Island
After a quick stop off for coffee and some of Iriomote’s homemade brown sugar gelato at family-run Kominka Cafe Komimura, you will arrive at the crossing towards Yubu Island, an uninhabited stretch of land only accessible via water buffalo. Hop aboard as your driver sings Ryukyu songs and offers unique insights into the local history and how to live like real islanders once did. Once on the island it’s perfect for an easy couple of hours exploring the botanical and butterfly gardens.
Taketomi Island
The final stop on your Yaeyama adventure is Taketomi island, a 1,500-acre island with a population of only 300 people. Explore just three small villages on the island, through narrow sand pathways, traditional Ryukyu houses and gardens. Local highlights include local soba at Takenoko, coffee cocktails at Yaaraa Cafe and handcrafted Okinawan ceramics at Atelier Gokouya.
Pro tip: Hire bikes to make the most of a trip to Taketomi Island. There are few cars on this tiny island and bikes are perfect for exploring at a slower pace.
Tokashiki Island
Renowned for its world-class diving and snorkelling, Tokashiki Island boasts crystal-clear waters packed with colourful coral reefs and exotic fish species. Accessible via a ferry ride from Naha Port, visitors can explore the island's lush landscapes, hike scenic trails and unwind on its sun-kissed beaches, most notably Aharen Beach. With a population of only 700 residents, the island maintains a laid-back way of life, backed by traditional Okinawan customs and a close-knit local community.
Discover lesser-known destinations, bucket list experiences and unique hotels in my brand new guidebook, Views from Japan.
Where to Stay
HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island
Nowhere is the timelessness of Ryukyu culture more beautifully preserved than the hidden village of HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island. 48 secluded villas are intertwined through stone pathways and gukku coral walls, and designed meticulously to reflect the lifestyles and rituals of the islanders themselves. As well as a 24 hour heated pool, signature ‘Island Time’ spa, Yuntaku lounge, and in-house dining celebrating local Okinawan cuisine, HOSHINOYA Taketomi offers unrivalled personal service and relaxation from busy modern lifestyles.
How to Get There
Direct flights to Ishigaki airport run daily from Tokyo, taking around 3 hours, and from Osaka, taking around 2 hours and 20 minutes. Once arriving in Ishigaki Island the best way to travel across the total of eight inhabited islands across the Yaeyama Archipelago is via high speed ferry. Taketomi Island is a short 10 minute boat ride from Ishigaki and can be easily explored via bicycle. Iriomote Island has three separate ports (Ohara, Uehara and Funaura) and car rental is available upon arrival, as well as hotel pick-up services.
Produced in partnership with Japan National Travel Organisation and Wondertrunk
Photography and words by Ben Richards
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Are you tired of seeing the same over-crowded locations in Japan? I’ve spent five years exploring all corners of the country and now reveal everything I have learnt in my brand new travel guidebook. In Views from Japan, I take you on a journey through unique architectural destinations, under-the-radar neighbourhoods and timeless countryside hotels, as well as revealing my most trusted insider travel tips and so much more.
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